Most items that break during a move weren't packed badly — they were packed without enough cushioning between them and the next impact. The fix is almost always more wrapping and a box that can absorb compression from above, not a fancier box or a more expensive pad.
This guide covers every category of fragile item by specific technique: dishes, glassware, mirrors, framed artwork, electronics, lamps, collectibles, and the labeling system that tells movers what's in the box before they touch it. For kitchen-specific packing, see the dedicated kitchen packing guide.
The Three Rules That Prevent Every Common Breakage
Before category specifics, three rules that apply to everything fragile:
Universal fragile packing rules
- No void space. A box with empty air space lets items shift and absorb impact instead of the cushioning. Fill every gap with crumpled packing paper, bubble wrap, or soft linens. Shake the closed box — if you hear movement, add more fill.
- Heavy items in small boxes. A small box full of fragile items is safer than a large box because the stack height is limited. A tower of dishes in a large box puts more pressure on the bottom items and is unstable on corners and bumps.
- Label FRAGILE on four sides and the top. Not one side — four sides and the top. Boxes rotate, get turned sideways, and get stacked. Labels on every visible face ensure movers see the warning regardless of orientation.
Dishes and Plates
The single most important technique: pack dishes vertically, not flat. Vertical packing distributes pressure along the strongest part of the plate (the rim). Flat-stacked plates take all the weight of boxes above on their flattest, weakest surface.
Line the box with 2–3 inches of crumpled paper at the bottom
The cushion on the floor of the box absorbs impact from below. Don't skip this step even if the paper feels excessive — a loaded truck hits bumps and the bottom-impact is just as significant as the sides.
Wrap each plate individually in unprinted packing paper
Place the plate at the center of a sheet, fold all four corners over the plate, and roll. For valuable or irreplaceable dishes, double-wrap. Don't use newspaper — the ink transfers to the glaze over time. Use plain newsprint or packing paper.
Stand plates on edge, side by side
Like records in a crate. Pack them snugly — no gaps between plates — and fill remaining space with crumpled paper. A box of vertically-packed plates should feel tight and solid when you shake it.
Glasses and Stemware
Glasses break when they shift inside a box and contact another glass or the wall. The solution is individual wrapping plus no glass touching another glass.
For standard glasses: wrap each one starting at the base, roll across the paper, tuck the excess paper inside the opening, and stand the glass rim-down in the box. Rim-down means the glass rests on its strongest point (the base) rather than balancing on the delicate opening.
For wine glasses: wrap the stem separately first with a small piece of paper twisted around it, then wrap the bowl. The stem is the weakest point and the most common fracture location. If you have cell dividers (cardboard grid inserts), use them — they keep each glass in its own compartment regardless of how much the box shifts.
What to avoid: packing glasses with one sheet of paper and no separation between them. One sheet gets compressed to nothing when a neighboring glass shifts. Use enough wrapping that two adjacent wrapped glasses can't touch even under box compression.
Mirrors and Large Framed Artwork
Mirrors and frames need two things: corner protection and surface cushioning. Corners are where stress concentrates — an unprotected corner on a wooden frame chips and cracks even under moderate compression.
Use corner protectors (foam or cardboard corner pieces available at any moving supply store), or fold thick cardboard over each corner and tape it in place. Then wrap the whole piece in two layers of bubble wrap, securing each layer with packing tape. Don't tape the tape to the frame itself — tape the bubble wrap to itself so it forms a protective envelope around the piece.
Pack mirrors and large framed art in mirror boxes (flat, extra-stiff cardboard boxes sold specifically for this). These boxes are designed to hold the piece upright during transport and support the weight across the full surface rather than at the edges. If you don't have a mirror box, use two flat boxes with the openings facing each other, enclosing the wrapped piece like a clamshell.
Always transport mirrors and artwork vertically — standing on edge, not lying flat. Flat transport concentrates all load on the center of the piece and is how glass breaks even in well-cushioned packing.
Electronics
Original boxes are best — use them if you kept them. If not, the principle is the same: wrap each item, fill void space, use a small or medium box.
- Screens (TVs, monitors): wrap in two or three layers of bubble wrap, secure the corners separately first. Never lay a screen flat — transport on its short edge. The LCD panel is not designed to support its own weight when horizontal.
- Computers and laptops: remove hard drives if accessible and pack them separately (they're the most sensitive component). Wrap the whole unit in bubble wrap and pack in a snug box with foam or crumpled paper on all sides.
- Cables and peripherals: bundle cables with rubber bands or velcro ties, put them in zip-lock bags labeled with what device they belong to, and pack them in a separate small box labeled "ELECTRONICS — CABLES." Label the bag and the box.
- Small devices (cameras, game controllers, speakers): wrap each item individually, pack in a small box with fill on all sides. Don't pile multiple items in one box without cushioning between each.
Temperature warning: don't leave electronics in a moving truck overnight in extreme heat or cold. Electronics are sensitive to temperature extremes — move them in your car if possible, or ensure they come off the truck the same day as the move.
Lamps
Pack lamp bases and shades separately. Bases can go in a standard box with bubble wrap cushioning. Shades need their own box — the fabric or glass shades are easily crushed under any weight. Use a box slightly larger than the shade, lined with tissue paper, and don't put anything else in the box. Label it "LAMP SHADE — DO NOT STACK."
Collectibles, Figurines, and Antiques
For items with significant monetary or sentimental value, the standard rule applies: more wrapping than you think you need. Wrap each piece in tissue paper first (the soft, non-abrasive inner layer), then bubble wrap, then nestle it in a bed of packing peanuts or crumpled paper in a small box with no room for movement.
For very valuable pieces — jewelry, irreplaceable family items, expensive collections — consider transporting them in your car rather than the moving truck. Movers are insured, but insurance doesn't recover sentimental value, and the hassle of a claim isn't worth it when the item fits in a bag.
Labeling Fragile Boxes
A FRAGILE label tells movers to be careful with the box. The contents label tells you — and them — what's actually inside. For fragile items, both are required:
- Write FRAGILE in large letters on all four sides and the top
- Write THIS SIDE UP with arrows on boxes where orientation matters (glasses, mirrors)
- List the 3–5 most specific contents: "Wine glasses — 8 wrapped in paper" rather than "Glassware"
- Note any special handling: "MIRROR — KEEP VERTICAL" if the box should not be laid flat
With OtterBox, each box gets a QR code that links to the full contents list. Movers can scan it and see exactly what's inside and how it was packed — which makes them more careful, not just warned. When you're searching for something specific after the move, you find it in seconds instead of opening every box marked "Fragile."